Blog — The Tipsy Gypsies

Before coming to Laos we didn’t know where to go or what to do and we certainly didn’t plan to stay as long as we did. In fact, we almost skipped Laos entirely because despite the many blog posts we researched in advance, we couldn’t get a clear sense of why we should visit or what makes it so different from Cambodia or Vietnam.

Thank god we didn’t skip it because it turned out to be our favorite country so far in South East Asia. Thailand is beautiful but it’s extremely developed, westernized and crowded. Cambodia is also wonderful but is also growing quickly in western influence and development. 

Laos is like the gentler, softer sister of the other SE Asia countries. It is quiet, empty, tranquil and absolutely stunning. Upon arrival you instantly notice the hospitality of the local people, who constantly greet you in their local language saying with a smile, “Sabaidee!” Laos is full of natural beauty such as waterfalls, natural swimming pools, mountains and rice patties surrounded by small villages.

Although Laos is technically a communist country, people are allowed to own private businesses and practice religion. It seems as if life is moving at a slower pace here and that is what we loved the most about Laos. And did we mention the food?! Our favorite in SE Asia so far. 

Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang is a UNESCO world heritage site. It’s a joy walking around and admiring the well preserved architecture and religious sites. Even though Luang Prabang is a famous tourist destination, it hasn’t lost its charm. The streets are dotted with young monks walking around in their orange robes, bathing in the river and chanting in the many temples throughout the city. The monks are highly respected by the locals and every morning at sunrise the locals gather on a street for Alms, a giving ceremony. Alms is an offering of food for the monks, typically rice and fruit. You can participate in the ceremony as long as you a respectful, which unfortunately many tourist are not. If you want to take a photo please do it quietly, from a distance and without flash!

Daily life in the village seems to be very laid back.  It’s a place where you can truly enjoy being a visitor because you don’t have to worry about being harassed by vendors trying to sell you anything. The city is on a curfew to respect the early rise of the monks, and after midnight, night life is non-existent.

This quaint village is situated by the mighty Mekong and the smaller Nam Khan river. The rivers and the surrounding mountains make this village absolutely stunning. On any day you will see the locals and tourists swimming in the river or watching the sunset.

Laos cuisine is amazing! They are especially famous for their love of sticky rice. Our favorite were the noodle soups, which come with plenty of fresh herbs, lettuce and other veggies. It sounds weird to put lettuce in a bowl of hot soup, but trust us, there is nothing better!

Besides the traditional food, you can also find tasty western dishes here. Laos was a French colony and the baguettes and pastries in Luang Prabang taste just like in France.

Another joy of the French influence are the Bahn Mi-like Laos sandwiches, which are everywhere and absolutely worth trying!

The night market in Luang Prabang is a fun place to visit and try some local cuisine. There are plenty of meats on sticks, grilled fish, sandwiches and noodle dishes. In our opinion the food at the night market wasn’t the freshest. We saw the vendors packing all the meats after hours of sitting on a table, and placing in plastic bags to be sold the next day. We were actually shocked that we didn’t get sick.

The Tipsy Gypsies Tip: Want the freshest street food? Look outside the night markets and you will find they are cooking smaller, fresher portions, rather than creating mountains of food (which they could never sell in one night) to impress tourists. 

If you want to get out of town you can hire a tuk tuk, taxi or rent scooters and drive 30km outside to see the incredible Kuang Si Falls. This place is no secret, and if you want to enjoy swimming in the fresh pools of water you should be there as soon as it opens. We got there about 9 am and there were few other people around, but by noon it was full of tourists and locals.

The Tipsy Gypsies Tip: We highly recommend you go by scooter as you can create your own schedule when visiting Kuang Si Falls. It only costs a little more but the freedom is totally worth it. We read a lot of blogs saying the road and ride out to the falls was dangerous but we found that to be completely untrue.

There are multiple waterfalls and the higher you are willing to hike up the stream, the less people you will see. The water is cool, and it’s very hard not to jump into the turquoise water. But don’t worry, you can!

There is also a small bear sanctuary on the way to the waterfalls. Most of these bears have been rescued from poachers, who either planned to illegally sell them as pets or kill them. One of the bears was missing a paw, but it was still very playful. The bears played together, cooled off in the pools of water and it was very entertaining to watch them.

Also make sure to stop at the small UXO Museum, which you can read more about here (COMING SOON). There are several of these museums in Laos so if you don’t go to this one make sure you stop at one of the others as it’s really eye opening and important to learn about the brutal history these people have survived and the problems they still deal with today.

Nong Khiaw

Nong Khiaw is a tiny village a few hours north from Luang Prabang. This place used to be a real off the beaten track place, but it is getting more popular every day. You can start to see the foot print tourism is leaving on this town with numerous restaurants and guest houses popping up.  

The Tipsy Gypsies Tip: We scored an awesome river view bungalow for $9 by staying a 10 minute walk outside the main town. There is a small dirt road near the school and down by the river are a handful of awesome cheap bungalows. 

There is a nice but strenuous hike you can do to see a spectacular view of the valley and the town below but please, don’t go in the middle of the day like we did! It was so hot we barely made it to the top. The trailhead starts about 50 meters past Temple of Ban Sop Houn.

Once you reach the top you are rewarded with a nice viewing hut that offers some shade and even a hammock!

Vang Vieng

We are only going to mention this town briefly as it’s the one place in Laos we really didn’t like. And why? Because it was one the town most ruined and destroyed by western influence. Viang Vieng was famous for many years as an insane, year round, Spring Break experience for young backpackers. Eventually it got so bad that backpackers were dying, doing stupid things that stupid backpackers do. So the government eventually shut everything down and now there are only a few bars left. We read the town has since changed and maybe it has, but to us it still reeked of its previous heyday and although there are some nice day trips you can do, we think the town is completely worth skipping.

The Tipsy Gypsies Tip: If you MUST go to Vang Vieng, you might as well score some free drinks. We got pretty hammered completely for FREE thanks to the extremely competitive happy hours, (which is basically free drinks from 6-8) that the few bars in town offer to try and lure you in. 

Thakhek and the Thakhek Loop

This town is located between Vientiane and 4000 Islands. The town itself doesn’t have much to offer but it is a must stop for the awesome Thakhek Loop which you can read in detail about here. 

4000 Islands

Don Det is located at 4000 Islands and just getting there was an adventure. We first took an overnight bus that dropped us in the middle of nowhere at 3am where we had to wait until sunrise, and then we traveled for another hour by a small boat to get there. The island itself is lovely. You can do some kayaking, biking, river tubing and read a book in hammocks overlooking the river.

The Tipsy Gypsies Tip: Internet in Don Det sucks but if you seek out the restaurant/café with the fewest customers, you’re much more likely to get a faster connection. 

We visited Don Det in the middle of March, which was good and bad. March is the hottest month in Laos and the heat was hard to deal with, but on a positive note, the island was empty and rooms were cheap. 

If you’ve never been to South East Asia, it’s easy to assume that all these neighboring countries are going to be very much alike. But as we continue to make our way through the region, we are quickly learning and loving how different they all are. And just because we said earlier, that Thailand and Cambodia are more developed, it doesn’t meant they aren’t worth visiting as well. But again, what set Laos apart, and what made us fall in love, was the lack of urgency. In a world that is dominated by the aggressive pursuit of profits and status, the people of Laos, in the city AND the villages, seemed untroubled by these pursuits. It’s truly the land of “it’s nap time”, when and where ever you want! Restaurants and stores almost always had an employee or two dozing in a corner somewhere.

And although we fell in love with the simplicity and slowness of Laos, we are also well aware of the countries tragic past, and the struggles it deals with today regarding it’s extremely corrupt government and massive levels of poverty. 

Despite these hurdles, we saw nothing but smiles as we drove through village after village in the countryside. And although we hope for a more honest government and more access to education, healthcare and vital services for it’s people, we hope they never forget that it’s always the right time to sit back, relax, and take a nap. 

After one year on the road complete, it’s time to take a look back on some of the amazing experiences we’ve had. This video also takes the form of a demo reel for Nate as a director. 

The day was finally upon us. Day one of three days of Khmer New Years celebrations. We had been pampered and prepped for the occasion, which you can read about here, but nothing could truly prepare us for the festivities ahead. 

Khmer New Years is a mix of spiritual enlightenment and good old fashioned party fun. The blazing hot days in the city are quiet as Khmer locals visit temples to pray and tourists go about their normal routines. But as the sun starts to set, everything changes.

Slowly you begin to hear music pumping from giant speakers on every street corner and buckets are filled with water as the city prepares for the oncoming war… a water war that is! 

By nightfall the city has turned in to a giant water gun fight as people walk the street and attempt drive by shootings with oversized super soakers. But it’s not just water, there are the clouds of baby powder. We have not found a clear answer as to why, but everyone has a container of baby powder and either dumps it on your head, or smears your cheeks with the soft soothing powder. 

This might sound like an activity that gets out of hand and causes fights and riots on the street but it did nothing of the sort. It was one of the most peaceful and fun events we’ve ever attended. From the hours of 6pm to 3am you get to be a kid again. 

These festivities go on repeat for three days. Quiet daylight hours, insane water fights and partying at night. The epicenter of this in Siem Reap of course, is Pub Street. Every bar is bursting with water drenched, powder chalked patrons, who are singing, dancing and laughing. Drinks are flowing and music is blasting so there is nothing but fun to be had. 

Apparently there are similar New Years events that go on throughout SE Asia which we can’t comment on but all we can tell you is that Cambodians really know how to throw a New Years celebration.

Due to the insanity and wetness of this event, we were hesitant to take our cameras out so we only have a few pictures. All we can say is if you’re looking for something amazing to do for new years, forget Times Square and January 1st.                                                                                  Mid April in Cambodia is where it’s at!

The Tipsy Gypsies Cruisin’. Illustrated and animated by Felix Roos.

It was nearly Christmas Eve and we were four months into our journey through India. We had arrived in southern India in the state of Kerala, famous for its backwaters and we had reached the point in our trip where we felt like we’d seen enough temples, tombs and forts for a lifetime. We had run out of the “Top 10” same (bullshit) things to do and we needed some serious balance of sightseeing and real adventure. So after much discussion, we decided to ask Santa for a rickshaw. This is the story of how we managed to explore nearly half the length of India in a rickshaw and not kill ourselves while doing it. 

After a few days of frantically trying to buy a rickshaw and an additional 5 days of finalizing the paperwork, fixing major mechanical issues and pimping our rickshaw, we were finally ready to leave Kochi on new years and start our wild road trip. We had no plan of how far to drive or where, so we just picked a direction and started driving north. These are our favorite places that we visited in our rickshaw.

Alleppey, Kerala

This is the famous backwaters country of South India. You can rent a houseboat for few hours and cruise around or sleep on the boat, which is what we did and highly recommend it. If you show up last minute during the middle of the week or off season, you can negotiate a pretty decent price for an overnight stay.

These traditional wooden houseboats with thatched roofs, were traditionally used to transport various materials and people. It was also the fastest way of transportation between the 5 lakes connected by canals. Nowadays the house boats are a big hit and a big tourist attraction. Staying overnight on a houseboat can get quite pricey, especially during the high season. Because we booked same day, we paid about 7,000 rupees for the whole boat, which is extremely cheap since it was around the holidays. Typically these boats cost anywhere from 15,000 to 50,000 per night.

We left the main harbor around 3pm to cruise and watch the sunset on the backwater. The boat was very comfortable and the crew was extremely nice and cooked us amazing Kerala style food. At night the boat parked on a quiet bank of the backwaters, far from the other boats we watched the stars and drank beers until the stars got blurry. 

In the morning we enjoyed a few more hours watching the sunrise, drinking hot chai and eating spicy Kerala style breakfast with eggs, appam (coconut pancakes), sambar (vegetable and lentil stew) and fruit.

Munnar, Kerala

Munnar is absolutely breathtaking and its hills are covered with vibrant tea plants. Many of the tea plantations in Munnar were started by the British, who loved this region for it’s cool climate and natural beauty.

A lot of the Indian tea is still produced here. Every time we drove through the hills we could hear the clipping sound of the fresh tea being cut. It also smells incredible! 

Munnar is situated in the Western Ghants mountain range with an altitude of 1,600 meters (5,200 ft), so getting there in the rickshaw was not easy, but it was absolutely worth it. We spent 2 days driving around the tea plantations and visiting the hill stations. Unfortunately, we couldn’t find any plantations that offered tea tastings, which was odd, but if you want to taste the regional tea you can visit the Munnar Tea Museum.

Karnataka

Not many people know that the state of Karnataka has some of the most beautiful beaches in India. We were shocked how pristine and remote the beaches were here. This is also probably the only place in India where the beaches have white sand. This coastline is not developed and you can only see small local huts near the beach and there are not many places to stay near the beach We found one hotel with a beach view near Mattu village, but the security guard turned us away. We returned to the hotel the next day and insisted on speaking to the manager. Eventually the manager told us the same thing, that they were booked and they didn’t have any future available dates. It was a very strange response. Perhaps we weren’t welcome because of our unusual form of transportation and we didn’t meet their typical guest profile. We will never know. Honestely it was for the best because we would never stay in a place that is so snobbish.

When we asked the locals on the road about some simple guest houses they mentioned one but we couldn’t find it. The nearby town Udupai (about 15km away), has plenty of accommodations though. We slept there and we hung out on the beach for few hours the next morning before we left

One day we would love to come back to Karnataka with a tent and sleep on the beach near Mattu.

Our favorite area was the stretch from Kapu till the end of the peninsula. The beaches on the peninsula are absolutely amazing and unlike anywhere else you will see in India!

Goa

Goa was probably the easiest place for us to drive our rickshaw. This state is one of the busiest tourist destinations in India and at the same time is very laid back. Most of people who live or work here are in the tourist industry, therefore, are accustomed to western habits like the love of strong coffee, eating pizza, women in bikinis or women driving a rickshaw for that matter. Just kidding about the women driving rickshaw, that still totally freaked everybody out.

 We drove through many towns in Goa and here some of the places that we liked the most.

Palolem: A Hippy’s Paradise

Palolem seems to attract mostly young hippy types and for some reason lots of Israelis. Tourists come here for yoga and spiritual trainings, to master fire dancing and hula-hoop skills. Palolem is one of the most westernized small towns in India that we have visited. You can actually eat an authentic pizza here at Magic Italy restaurant, drink perfectly brewed coffee, that has not been diluted and sweetened with 10 spoons of sugar, from Mika Mocha. The beach in Palolem is very popular during the day with people trying to sell you boat rides and at night the atmosphere is quite charming with candle lit tables on the sand and fresh seafood being grilled. With no shortage of places to eat on the beach, we always tried to time our dinner around sunset so we could take in the amazing view. 

Agonda: the Holly Cow beach

Agonda is the smaller and more quiet sister of Palolem. There are a few decent restaurants on the main road and the guest houses seem to be the cheapest here. We rented a bungalow, on the beach for 800 rupees/12 USD. The beaches although less crowded and relaxing are full of cow shit, so be careful where you walk, especially at night. If you want something even more remote, visit the nearby Cola beach, which is gorgeous.

Morjim: a Russian Paradise

We actually like Morjim a lot mostly because the wide and well kept beaches and the sunsets are incredible!

Although this area used to be known as a heavy party town, it seems like things have changed these days. We had a relaxing stay at Xaviers with their restaurant and great food situated right on the beach (the service is a bit slow, but the food was worth the wait). At Xavier’s, they also screen movies every night, but in Russian. Morjim is a popular tourist destination for many Russians and almost everything has been translated into Russian including menus in the restaurants and movies, which have a Russian voice over. We heard some rumors from the locals that a while ago this town was owned by the Russian mafia. It has since changed and nowadays you will come across many Indian and western tourists who don’t know how to order from a Russian menu.

Malvan, Maharastra

Malvan has a really special place in our hearts. We first came to this town before we started the rickshaw road trip and we fell in love with it’s people and atmosphere. We’ve made some very good friends, ate some amazing food and so we had to come back for more.

Unlike touristy Goa, the beaches in Malvan are almost empty. You wont find any obnoxious, loud bars on the beach here, but you are welcome to chill with a cold brew. 

Malvan is known for it’s unique blend of spices and the seafood is great here. This town has the best Thali restaurant that we have tasted in all of India.  The name of the restaurant is Love kick and it is run by the Kirtane family. We ate there everyday. The Veg Thali came with a fresh green leafy salad mixed with raw coconut, chana with a unique mix of coconut, aloo (potatoes) mixed with cabbage and a sol curry, which is to die for! Sol curry, also known as Solkadi, is a popular Konkani curry made from coconut and kokum fruit. It is a staple of Malvan, eaten with rice or drank after a meal. It’s mildly sour flavor and light texture not only tasted delicious but it helps your mouth cool off from the spices and also helps with digestion. So many benefits from one fruit!

If you are polite when you arrive, the owner of the Love Kick restaurant will help you with a secret BYOB section. You might have to sit in the VIP room, aka the back of the house, so nobody sees you drinking. Also please don’t embarrass us by asking for a fork. Make sure you eat your Thali like it was meant to be eaten, with your hands!

Besides the food and beaches in Malvan, you can visit the Sindhudurg Fort by a small boat, buy some fresh fish from the market in the early morning, and make sure you try the local drink made from coconuts called Madi.

But most importantly, make sure you make some friends. The Malvan people are some of the best we have ever met! 

If you come to Malvan we INSIST you stay at Vicky’s Guest House. We can’t recommend this place enough. The whole Fernandez family is so lovely and Vicky who runs the guesthouse, is the best unofficial guide in town. He will give you many tips and will go out of his way to make sure you are a satisfied customer. 

Malvan was our last stop on the rickshaw road trip. We drove about 1,500 km and we covered 4 states in two weeks. We originally planned to drive all the way to Rajasthan but at the end we had to change our travel plans and we left our rickshaw with a friend in Malvan, who helped us sell it to a local who will use it for his business. The small profit was then distributed amongst our friends who helped us along the way.

Final Thoughts

Buying and driving the rickshaw wasn’t just fun, it was also educational and eye opening. Traveling at a top speed of 40km/hr on mostly backroads gives you a perspective of India you can’t get in any other way. It doesn’t matter if you go by train, bus or car, you’re moving too fast. And there is no better ice breaker than a crazy looking rickshaw to make new friends in every town you go.

But like many things in India, driving a rickshaw can be quite dangerous. They are slow, unreliable and have questionable balance. So if you ever decide to try this, please make sure you get lots of practice beforehand and do not overestimate your or the rickshaws abilities. Vehicles drive fast and with little regard to the rules of the road so driving defensively will be your best chance of survival.

The legality of what we did is also somewhat questionable but we had no issues, even when we were pulled over by police. 

And finally, the most important take away from this trip was how humbled we were by everyone that we met. It didn’t matter what village or city we were in, when we broke down, people went out of their way to help us get back on the road. When we were lost, people gave us directions with a smile. And when we were just stopping for fun, there was always someone with the kindness and sincerity to make us feel truly welcome. 

We wish we could take the rickshaw with us to every country that we visit because the experience was so much greater. But since we can’t, we will continue to seek out other adventures that allow for these types of connections. Because to us, that is what travel is really all about. As great as the beaches or mountains are, in the end it’s always about the people. So India, we thank you for that. Thank you for welcoming us into your home and and treating us like family and thank you for teaching us what unconditional generosity really means.

We look forward to seeing you again soon!

If you have any questions about the trip or want advice on doing something similar, feel free to ask in the comments below.

There are road trips and then there are road trips… this the latter. Although merely a 3 – 4 day loop, the majestic views and the multitude of caves and villages to be explored make it a must for anyone traveling through Laos.

We at The Tipsy Gypsies have a great appreciation for temples, museums and guided tours but after so many months on the road, what really tickles our pickle, are trips that involve adventure and allows for the amazingness that is known as, The Unexpected.

Marta taking her first ride!

Although we have embarked on far more adventurous journeys such as driving a rickshaw across India, or exploring remote villages in the Himalayas, we were thoroughly excited when we arrived in the town of Thakhek and picked out our rides for this journey. Marta had never ridden a motorcycle before yet she already knew her favorite of the two wheel family, is the dirt bike. Therefor it was natural that we rent a Kawasaki 150cc for her to get her feet wet. Since this was a learning experience, we decided our second bike would be an easy, cruising, fully auto, Honda scooter. That way we could take turns on the more rugged, not designed for road trips Kawasaki, and after a few hours of ass sore, find relief on the cushony Honda cruiser.

We arrived in Thakhek late the first evening so little was to be done. But our next day we rented the dirt bike and stayed in town so Marta could get her bearings on riding the (for her petite size), beast of a two wheeler. Thakhek as a town doesn’t have much to offer but they do have a cute tiny night market at the city center square where you can sit at children size tables and nibble street goods, while watching some projected Lao soap operas.

The next day we set out early. Within minutes of leaving Thakhek you see yourself surrounded by those beautiful steep cliffs iconic to South East Asia. There are a slew of caves you can visit within the first half of your day but after our first, we decided to skip the rest.

There are a slew of caves you can visit within the first half of your day but after our first, we decided to skip the rest. They are pretty, but honestly it felt like (understandably) they were built just to attract tourists to these villages that otherwise, have nothing else. The locals we met were friendly and inviting but the cave we visited left a lot to be desired. Preferring the view from the road, we decided to just continue towards our first days end destination at the town of Thalang.

The drive was spectacular and ascending to a higher altitude, we made some steep winding climbs. Eventually you see the terrain drastically change as you pass the Nakai-Tai Damn. The landscape suddenly takes on a surreal, beautiful and yet post apocalyptic feel as you’re suddenly driving between unnatural islands formed by once-upon-a-time hilltops and surrounded by unnatural lakes filled with barren and dying trees.

The town of Thalang itself is tiny and situated on one of the hilltop-turned-islands. There are two companies operating bungalow guesthouses and although Mad Monkeys recommended the first called Phosy Thalang, we decided on the second, which is right before you cross the bridge and is called Saibadee Guesthouse. We still walked to Phosy to compare and we were very happy with our decision. We got a great but modest bungalow for 50,000 kip ($7 dollars) and the family who runs the place is awesome. Really friendly, welcoming and they do an all you can eat BBQ every night which was worth every penny of our higher than normal dinner expense of 50,000 kip/person. Everyone sits at a long communal table and it’s like having a big family cookout.

The next day we took our time and we were on the road by 9:30am. The drive out of the lake area is spectacular and eventually the terrain will change as you reach the junction town of Lak Xao. Not much to see here but a good stop for lunch if you had a light breakfast.

Beyond Lak Xao the terrain again becomes more mountainous and jungly, sprinkled with little villages and picturesque rice paddies.

About an hour out of Lak Xao, just past the town of Phontan, you will see a sign that says Pool Spring, or something to like that. This is a must stop. After hours on the dusty hot road it’s a gorgeous natural swimming hole with a vibrant blue and cool refreshing water. When we first arrived things were quiet and peaceful, but within an hour of getting there, scooter after scooter of local teens from the local school began arriving and the atmosphere turned into a spring break party. We weren’t sure if this was a normal, every day occurrence or school was out for holiday or summer… but regardless, we were happy we got there before the music started blasting. No stress to us though because it was time to hit the road again as we still had another 150km and a hike ahead of us before the day was done.

Eventually you make another climb and then finally a descent into a massive valley. The viewpoint you’ll pass as you descend is totally worth a stop. After you finish your decent you’ll reach the town of Nahim, which mainly exists for the large hydro plant in town. But just past the turn you’ll later make to head to Konglor, is a trailhead and a hike to a waterfall (also clearly marked). There is an entrance fee of 10,000 kip and it’s a beautiful 1.5-3km hike depending on where you park, but we were so bummed when we reached the waterfall.

We did this hike in April, which is not the rainy season so the waterfall was merely a trickle. Nonetheless we were still grateful to find a swimming pool large enough for us to cool off before heading back.

After the hike we hit the road fast and furious to make our final stop for the day before the sun went down. This was honestly my favorite part of the day’s trip. The road into Konglor is spectacular as you pass through farming village after farming village. And as the walls of the valley grew narrower and narrower, it only became more spectacular. If you can time this  part of the ride during dusk you won’t regret it. I was smiling from ear to ear at the scenery, back dropped by the pastel colors of the famous Laos setting sun.

We arrived at the end of the road and the town of Konglor, right as it got dark. And we scoped out every guesthouse in town. We can say with certainty, stay in the very first one! The rooms again are only 50,000 kip, which is cheaper than most, and spotlessly clean. Their menu left a little to be desired but you can easily walk to any of the other guesthouses, or the one restaurant in town for dinner.

The next morning we were out by 8:30 and heading to the ferry dock for the main attraction on this trip: the Konglor Cave. Although we had grown less than enthusiastic about the previous caves, this one is worth every penny. And if you share the boat with the max passenger capacity of three, that’s pretty much what this awesome experience will cost you (2,000 kip into the park and 130,000 kip for the boat, which you can divide by the three passengers).

The Tipsy Gypsies Tip: Caution, you will get a little wet and have to walk in some water so bring flip-flops if you have them. If not, you can rent them.

The boat ride is amazing and takes you through the massive 7km long cave, out the other side and then back again. Aside from one small Disneyland, gimmicky section where they’ve lit the cave with colorful lights, your only light source is your headlamp. As you emerge from the other side you’re greeted by lush green jungles and even if only for a moment, you and your two companions feel like real explorers. After a quick break and a cold Laobeer at the other ferry dock, you head back and experience it for a second time. After saying goodbye to our awesome guide and momentary fellow explorer, it was time to hit the road again.

From this point you have two options. Head back the way you came, which takes most people an additional two days, or do what we did because of time, continue the last section of the loop, which connects to the main highway and speeds you back to Thakhek.

Final view before descending towards the main highway.

Our recommendation, if you have the time, head back the way you came. Although we hit a couple amazing and quite memorable viewpoints before reaching the main highway, once you get to the busy road, the ride sucks. It’s dangerous and nothing to see. Buses, trucks and cars will fly past you and you’ll be bound to have a few heart attacks along the way.

Needless to say, we were all smiles when we got back to Thakhek. After two weeks of “sight seeing”, it gave us at least a little adrenaline boost and reinvigorated our travel spirits. And on top of that, Marta is now a motorcycle rider! I must say I’m extremely proud of my wife for yet again, wanting to do something ambitious, and kicking ass at it. At a height of 5’1”, a 150cc bike is the MAXIMUM size she can fit on. Her feet barely touched the ground, yet she took it on fearlessly and with determination. I can’t wait to see her ride a bike more her size as I know she will love it even more.

In Thakhek, we were thoroughly pleased with our experience renting from Mad Monkey who had great customer service and good prices. We were also happy with our stay at the Thakhek Travel Lodge, offering dorm rooms, affordable simple doubles as well as some more upscale rooms if you want something a bit nicer after the long ride.

Two important notes. First, if you are trying to decide between this loop and the Pakse, choose this one! Although we have not done both our selves, we talked to multiple long term riders who have done both and they say the Thakhek Loop wins hands down. Second, if you read some of the other popular blog posts on this loop, most are completely outdated in pictures and details. For example, the loop is now completely paved! We were expecting major sections of road to be dirt and muddy but aside from small side roads to reach caves and swimming holes, the main route is as smooth as butter.

We can’t wait for our next two-wheeler road trip, maybe South America??? Maybe sooner??? Who knows, so stay tuned!

If you have any questions or think we missed something awesome from your trip, please share in the comments below!

One of the biggest struggles for us backpackers, is that you can’t buy any cool handcrafted souvenirs to bring home with you. Our backpacks always seem to be too small and too damn heavy. But we have a solution for all y’all. Look for portable and consumable souvenirs like… alcohol!

On our recent trip to Luang Prabang in Laos, we went to the night market and found some awesome rice wine sold by a local lady. She was sitting on a floor matt between other vendors, who were selling the typical tourist tchotchkes like t-shirts, statues and clothes, which we don’t care for too much. She made us an offer we couldn’t refuse; a free tasting. We tried a couple bottles of different wines and we decided to purchase a small bottle of the most mild flavored fermented rice wine.

The taste was unique and it reminded us of the health drink called kombucha. If you love kombucha you will like this wine. Naturally, rice wine tastes excellent with asian food. We got a bowl of spicy noodle soup and drank the wine with it. It was delicious! 

This rice wine was easy to drink. It is alway dangerous when alcohol tastes like juice because it’s hard to know when to stop! If you’re ever in Luang Prabang give it a try and you won’t regret it.

Cheers!

2 days on a liveaboard, diving off the coast of the Similan Islands in Thailand. What an amazing experience! Special thanks to Pirate Divers in Khao Lak (piratediversinternational.com) for the great deal.

India is known for its large population, but did you know that some of the most remote and least populated villages in the world are also found here? 

The Himalayan Mountains need no introduction, but not many people know about the quiet, peaceful valleys in the Himalayas where you don’t need to be a hardcore trekker to connect with nature or experience the tranquility and amazing hospitality of the natives who live in this rugged terrain.

The three Himalayan Valleys: Spiti, Pin and Kinnaur, located in the northern part of India in the Himachal Pradesh region, are a must visit before you die!

This is Part 3 describing our 12 day journey visiting: Spiti, Pin and Kinnaur Valleys in the Himachal Pradesh. Please read Part 1 and Part 2 to find helpful tips on how to plan your trip to this region.

Spiti Valley loop itenerary.

Day 01

 Manali-Chandratal-Losar

On a cold morning we woke at 5am sharp. Our driver Bitu, showed up on time and by 5:45am we packed up the car and we were eager to start our next adventure through the Himalayan valleys.

When we left Manali it was still dark outside, and the city was just waking up. Shortly after leaving we began climbing up some steep mountains. The views opened up and we could tell that this trip was going to be epic.

Everything seemed to be easy until the road started getting more winding and bumpy. Around this time I, (Marta) started to feel car sick. We had to stop for a short break for some fresh air and well, vomiting. My stomach was not ready for this. Luckily the nausea went away quickly. My body was able to adjust and the rest of the trip went without any stomach problems.

Rohtang Pass and pile of corpses

Before we left on this trip we’d heard that the roads in the Spiti Valley can be very dangerous. Sometimes the internet can make things more dramatic than they really are. The roads seemed fine to us and before we knew it, we’d passed the “scary” Rohtang Pass. However, we understood why this road remains closed in the winter. The road was narrow and at some points had huge cliffs on the side.

As long as you/or your driver is sober, doesn’t speed, and the weather conditions are optimal this road is totally safe. If you are traveling by bus, you might want to close your eyes at some points. Having said that, we are well aware of the dangers when it rains or snows. Fatal landslides are notorious in this region so make sure to check the weather before heading out on your trip.

The pass is open May to October and after that if you are crazy enough, you can travel at your own risk.  Hence the name Rohtang, which translates in english to “pile of corpses”. 

The Tipsy Gypsies Tip: Make sure you bring a bandana or a face mask when you visit these valleys. Not only is the sun strong, but the roads are extremely dusty. Something to cover your face will make the trip much more enjoyable.

After a few hours of driving, everyone got a bit hungry. We stopped at a Dhaba (a roadside restaurant) in Chhatru for breakfast. We had Paratha (stuffed flatbread) served with pickles and Chai to drink.

Paratha is a breakfast staple in India. Parathas can be stuffed with veggies like potato, cauliflower or cheese and are usually served with curd and sour pickles. Our Indian friends laughed when we told them that in America we eat parathas with main dishes like dals and curries. 

A few kilometers after Chatru we saw an official sign welcoming us to Spiti & Lahaul aka “the middle land”.

Chandra Tal “Lake of the Moon”

In the afternoon we reached Chandra Tal Lake, located at 4,300 meters (14,100 ft) above sea level. At this point we started to feel small symptoms of altitude sickness: shortness of breath, tiredness, dizziness (it was definitely not from drinking), but we managed to go for a short walk to the lake, which was beautiful.

We almost camped near the lake but due to the altitude sickness, and the campground being short on supplies because it was closing the next day, we decided to move on. Our next option for accommodations was Losar.

Kunzum Pass

Before we reached Losar there was another big pass to cross, the Kunzum Pass. This pass connects Kullu and Lahaul Valleys with the Spiti Valley. 

After a long day of driving, we finally arrived in Losar. We could’t see much of the town because it was already late and the power was out in the whole village. We ate a simple, warm meal and we were ready for bed. Since the power was still out, there was no hot water for a shower. That night we feel asleep to candle light under thick blankets, dreaming of hot water back home.

Day 02

Losar-Kaza

Waking up early was not easy but this was something that we had to get used to on this trip. Our room was warming up from the strong sunlight beaming through our windows. There was still no warm water due to the power outage that lasted the whole night. The cold shower woke us up fast.

Before we left we had a chance to enjoy the views in Losar. The town looked peaceful and beautiful in the morning. Frost was still on the ground and you could definitely feel winter approaching…

We were ready to leave by 8am, in order to reach the SDM office in Kaza before it closed. Kaza was our last chance where we could obtain the ILP (Inner Line Permit), which would allow us to enter the Spiti Valley.

As soon as we arrived in Kaza, we drove straight to the SDM office. Unlike in Shimla and Manali, the officers in Kaza easily issued us the “single person permit”. We only had to pay 50 rupees each for processing our permit. After about 30 minutes we both left the office relieved, and happy to have our ILP permits in hand! 

The Tipsy Gypsies Tip: All foreigners visiting the Spiti Valley are required to get the ILP (read Part 2).

In Kaza we just needed to find a hotel for one night. Despite being late in the season, almost all the guesthouses were either closed, booked or wanted too much money. Eventually we found a room for 1,200 rupees (after negotiation) at the “Snow White” hotel. The hotel had decent rooms, very slow wifi and some hot water. At this point we didn’t need much to make us happy.

It was getting late and the temperatures were getting colder every day. This made us a little worried since we did not have proper winter clothing with us. The rooms were never heated. We had to layer on everything we owned and we always requested extra blankets.

Day 03: Kaza

In the morning we found out that the only gas station in town was out of fuel. We had enough gas to see the nearby monasteries but not enough to leave Kaza. We continued on with our plans.

Visiting Komic Village & Monastery

Komic Village, located at an altitude of 15,027 feet above sea level, is apparently the world’s highest village that can be reached by car. There is only one bus that goes from Kaza to Komic twice a week, which is why you will see many villagers along the road trying to hitchhike. Since there were only three of us in a big car we picked up hitchers many times.

At Komic Monastery, there are two building structures. The old Tangyud Monastery, where the monks pray and a newer (pic above) monastery where the monks reside. Women are not allowed to enter the old monastery durning prayer time. We weren’t sure exactly why and the monks weren’t too keen on talking about it. We have been told that the majority monks practice celibacy, and some of them might even refuse to be in a presence of women, but apparently some of them have open relationships. 

The Buddhist monks were very curious and friendly. We had the honor of sharing a few stories with this monk from Komic over hot Chai.

Langza

On the way back from Komic we stopped in Langza to see the statue of Lord Buddha overlooking the valley.

Day 04: Kaza

In the morning we tried again to buy gas at the station (or from the locals) but we had no luck. We were supposed to be on our way to the next town, but it looked like we would be in Kaza a little longer. Nobody expected the gas shortage to last this long. 

Key Monastery

Key Gompa was founded around the 11th century. It was destroyed multiple times by the Mongols in the 11th, 14th and 17th centuries. Then in the 1800’s, it was raided and sacked by the Sikhs, followed by a fire and a severe earthquake years later. However, the monks did not give up easily and somehow they managed to rebuild the monastery. Impressive!

The “boxy” structure developed because of the many destructions this monastery suffered. The monks wanting to rebuild as fast as possible, built simple box like structures clustered together, which resulted in a unique, fort-like look. 

On the way to this monastery, Nate and I talked about how much we admired the monks life-long dedication to Buddhism. We’ve contemplated what would it be like to be a young child, far away from home, living with “strangers” and devoting your entire life to God. To an outsider, the buddhist religion compared to other religions seemed superior… unscathed… incorruptible….

When we reached the top of the Key monastery, we met some other tourists from America. One of the guests started to chat with us and without telling him about our conversation, he flat out asked us if we thought that the Buddhist religion was better than others, to which we shrugged our shoulders implying a “maybe/yes”. It felt like he just either overheard our private talk or he was reading our minds. Since I was raised Catholic, I pointed out problems with the church: the political power, pedophilia, bigotry to name just the few, to which the man said that it does in fact happen in buddhism as well. He raised some interesting points about the Dalai Lama, probably the most famous buddhist teacher of our time, being a very rich man. Many people criticize the Dalai Lama for being a celebrity and profiting from the religion and not being the most honest man.  What was more interesting, is this conversation happened in front of the head monk who gave us a tour of the monastery, who didn’t seem to mind what this man was telling us. The man himself was a follower of buddhism, but it was refreshing to hear him admit that sometimes things aren’t what they seem, and that it’s good to question not only what we don’t know, but what we think we already knew.  

When we were leaving we looked round the monastery with a new perspective. This time we saw many villagers working hard on a new addition with a private room for the Dalai Lama. They were carrying and moving massive, heavy rocks with primitive machinery. These men, women and very young children, as poor as they were, volunteered their time to improve these old structures for no money. I would think that with all the donations these monasteries receive they could afford to pay them even a measly salary…

We left the monastery with more questions than answers.  I guess that is the point of traveling; that we learn from others, experience new perspectives and be reminded that the world is not black and white, but also many shades of grey between. We still have enormous respect for buddhism and many it’s followers. But it was refreshing to be made aware of the things you don’t hear about as often.

From the Key Monastery we also visited the town of Kibber. On the way we saw the highest bridge in India being built by men and women. These people had no harness on them while they were working! They were probably were paid but defnitelly not enought for the type of work they were doing. 

Before there were bridges, the way to cross the huge valleys was by basket. People, as well as animals and goods were transported this way. Somebody needed to be waiting and willing to pull the rope on the other side of the hill. This system still exists in many areas where roads and bridges have not been built.

The picture above is a close up and it might not look so bad, but the drop was huge. You defintely needed to have some strong nerves to use this for of transportation.

We drove back to Kaza to refill our tank and bellies! 

While our driver waited in line at the gas station, we tried a small local food joint. This place was run by a cute little lady and her husband. We tried the veggie chow main, thupka soup and momos. It was all delicious!

Best Tibetan homemade meal in Kaza! You will find this place at the main square, near the gas station.

Chinese food in India is infused with tibetan and indian spices, which gives it a unique taste. It’s hot and flavorful. 

After lunch we found out that the gas wouldn’t arrive until the next morning. We were forced to stay yet another night in Kaza. 

Day 05: Kaza to Mudh

Our driver Bitu, had been waiting at the gas station since 6am. After many hours of anxiously waiting, our driver finally returned with great news. The tank was full! We enjoyed our time in Kaza but were ready to drive to the next town, Mudh.

Arriving in Mudh was like love at first sight. The air was cold but the sun was shining. In the dusty valley, already covered by the shadows, we saw and heard yaks being rounded up by the villagers. 

Later we found out that a big festival was going to take place the next day. The Lama of the region, for the first time in probably more than 50 years, was going to visit Mudh and we were there to witness it!

The whole village seemed to be doing something to help with the preparations for the next day. Cooking, cleaning, decorating the town and washing the animals. We were so excited about what we were going to see the next day!

Day 06: Arrival of the Lama

In the morning, the whole village woke up early for the Lama’s arrival. The ladies had been cooking meals for the entire town, the yaks and horses were now decorated and the villagers wore their best clothes. This was the the first time these villagers were able to meet the Lama, but somehow they knew exactly what to do. It’s like they prepared for this moment their whole life. 

Women and men in traditional outfits awaiting the Lama’s arrival.

Around noon, the Lama and his entourage finally arrived in Mudh.  There was a big crowd of people surrounding him. He proceeded to a special room, where only the most elite were able to accompany him.

Some etiquette that we learned while taking pictures of the Lama was that we couldn’t stand higher that him and technically weren’t allow to take pictures of him. He had his official photographer and a camera man and only they had the privilege of capturing the young, 27 year old Lama’s image.

The people from Mudh brought offerings in the form of food and money. There was also a “shaman” in a costume, who ran down the street, chanting and huffing and puffing to scare away evil spirits. At least, that is what our interpretation of it was.

Shortly after the Lamas arrival we were invited to join the rest for a communal meal. We had never felt so included and welcomed, especially for something we knew so little about. An enormous thank you to the village of Mudh!

Day 07: Mudh to Tabo

Still overwhelmed with the feeling of what we had witnessed the day before, we left Mudh broken hearted. We hugged and thanked our lovely hosts from Tara’s Homestay! They were amazing to us! Not only this lady saved my ear from a piercing infection, (story coming soon), but I would travel anywhere again to taste her homemade meals and chai around a hot stove!

Dhankar Monastery

On the way to Tabo, we stopped at another monastery to say a quick hello and have a chat with the monks.

Many people visit Spiti Valley in the summer, which we want to do in the future, but the colors of the fall are absolutely beautiful here.

Day 08, 09, 10: Tabo-Kalpa -Raksham

After spending a night in Tabo, we headed to Kalpa. This was our last night with our driver Bitu, who was going to leave us in Raksham with some new friends. We had a flexible schedule and we weren’t in a rush to get back to Delhi. 

The Tipsy Gypsies saying goodbye to their trusty driver Bitu.

Raksham

Raksham is located in the Kinnaur Valley, a region known for the most delicious apples in India. This village is a perfect spot for bird-watching, bouldering and hiking. The terrain is very different from the dry and rocky Spiti and Pin Valley’s. Raksham is surrounded by evergreen trees and massive rivers run through the valleys. 

Besides the famous apples, try the fresh apricot oil that you can use for massages.  Your skin will smell and feel amazing!

Chitkul

If you are staying in Raksham, you MUST visit Chitkul, another quaint village only a short drive away.

Day 11&12: Returning to Delhi

We spent the last 2 days with our friends in Narkanda, learning about birdwatching, but we preferred to do beer-watching. It was great to relax for 2 days before we got back to hectic Delhi for the biggest holiday in India, Diwali.

We are already planing to return to this region durning the summer with our tents and do some camping. Let us know if you have been to the Spiti Valley before and what was your experience was like. What must we do next time? Share your stories in the comments below!

Nate’s sister and her boyfriend Kion came to India to visit us for two weeks. Our tour was Mumbai – Udaipur – Jodhpur – Jaisalmer – Jaipur. Unfortunately we all spent more than half of the trip sick. So we missed some sites and opportunities. Luckily in the end everyone got better and we still managed to have some fun. Here are a few random clips I managed to get between trips to the restroom…

It’s been 8 months on the road. And I (Nate), am spent. I knew this was going to happen at some point, I just didn’t know when. The first question I always asked long term travelers before leaving was, “don’t you get tired of it?”. 

Well, I can answer now with confidence, yes, you do.

The grass is always greener on the other side right? You’re stuck at your desk job and all you do is dream of sandy beaches and adventure. Well I’ve had plenty of sandy beaches and at this moment, all I crave is routine. Predictability. MY bed, a LIVING ROOM, and OH MY GOD, an American supermarket with all the goodness and variety it has to offer.

I knew it wasn’t going to be easy before we left but I didn’t know exactly how hard it could get. I’m seriously one click away from an Expedia ticket home right now. My wife Marta is a natural extrovert. Adventure comes to her easily. She is the sole reason we have had so many amazing experiences along this trip and for that I’m grateful. But it also exhausts me! I crave mundane!

But this is part of it right? Pushing your boundaries. Stepping outside your comfort zone. It allows you to discover a side of yourself you never knew existed. Before, when I wasn’t comfortable or didn’t know what to do I could always go home. I was always a natural home-body, a couch potato. Now, I have no home and it’s through this process that I’m forced into new experiences, new opportunities that I would never have sought out otherwise.  

As I sit here writing, with a second browser tab open and exhaustedly DREADING the purchase of our next tickets to _______, it is with those tickets that I also know new inspiration, new stories, new friends and a new me will arrive. And THIS… is the reason why I’m not coming home yet. 

It was a beautiful evening in the coastal town Malvan, and we were sitting at Chivala beach watching the sunset. Early on we had befriended a local fisherman named Bhi and we would see him working every day when we went to the beach. He barely spoke any english and we didn’t speak any of his local language but that didn’t stop us from having a good time. 

As we watched the sunset and sipped our freshly opened ice cold King Fishers, we heard a motorcycle pull up. It was our friend! He wanted to take us on an adventure but we had just opened our beers so we almost said no. But finally after some convincing, we agreed to go. 

We finished our beers and the two of us hopped on the back of his motorcycle. This might sound crazy outside of India but we’ve easily seen 4-5 people on one bike so this was actually quite comfortable. 

First he took us to an amazing view point where we finished watching the sunset. A place we never would have found on our own so thanks for that Bhi! But after that he took us somewhere even better. 

His bike pulled over on the side of the road and we had no idea where we were. The only thing we saw was a tiny makeshift shack. We went inside and there was a group of men sitting on the floor clearly having a good time. “Coconut juice!” they said enthusiastically. We decided to take a sip and it was absolutely delicious. It clearly tasted fermented so we asked if there was alcohol in it. “NO!” the men said in unison. But after hearing them later call it “slow poison”, and doing a little research we later learned it was definitely alcoholic. They must have meant there was no ADDED alcohol.

The drink is formally called Madi, which you can read more about here, but we definitely prefer “coconut juice” 🙂

It’s not every day that a country decides to scrap two of it’s most popular currencies, the 500 and 1000 rupee, let alone scrap them and tell everyone the night before.

Yet this is what happened to us while we were in Bombay. In order to cut down on blackmarket money and counterfeit bills, India’s Prime Minister Narendra Modi decided to pull this bold move.

The government announced they would put a limit on how much cash you could turn in without imposing major penalties and fines up to 50% of your money. Luckily for us we had limited money to exchange. It still took us about an hour and half of chaos at the bank turn the old currency in.

Once we exchanged what we had, our problems weren’t over. All ATM machines were down for several days and when random ones started reopening they would have lines around the block and run out of cash within hours. On top of that, few businesses accept credit cards so needless to say we had to be careful with our money.

Almost everyone we’ve talked to here is supporting this crazy strategy despite the major inconveniences many are facing. India is largely a cash based economy so there are millions who will be affected by this including the massive wedding industry. Many families pay for the weddings in cash and spend years saving for it. The restaurants in Goa are empty because so many people canceled their trips to avoid the hassles so we’re sure the tourism industry is taking a huge hit. Also, remote poor people who live too far from a bank can have piles of cash saved up that may now be worthless.

Anyway, it was interesting to witness a country thrown into financial chaos for more than a month. Considering the stress it’s causing so many people we sure hope the long term benefit is worth it and does what their hoping. Only time will tell… 

 Want to plan a trip on the amazing Spiti Valley Loop? Every foreigner traveling from Kaza to Kinnauar is required to obtain the ILP (Inner Line Permit) so make sure you do your homework. Here you’ll find answers on how to obtain the permit as well as transportation options for this amazing journey. If you missed Part 1 of this story you can find it here.

After being denied the ILP (Inner Line Permit) in Shimla, we continued our journey in the north of India to Manali, where we were told we would 100% get the permit.

Again, we ended up in a small town with one purpose only, to obtain the ILP.  All the foreigners visiting Himachal Pradesh between the Spiti Valley and Kinnaur Districts are required to get the ILP.  

Inner Line Permit

As soon as we got to Manali, we visited the SDM office to get the ILP,  which is located in the city center, on Mall road. It turned out that in Manali, the permits are only issued for groups of 4 or more people, so we were back to square one. Winter was approaching fast and we only had 2 days before the pass was going to close (The Kunzum Pass is closed from October 16th for 7 months).

But this is India and we knew that there would be another way around this small bump. At the SDM office we were informed to go to Kaza, where the officers were apparently not as strict on the rule of 4 people traveling together.

We decided to try our luck with the ILP in Kaza. We only had to find transportation from Manali to Kaza.

Transportation

There are few ways to travel on this route.

Option 1: The most obvious choice is to drive yourself either by renting a car or motorcycle. But since neither of us had done this before and after hearing how treacherous the roads were, we didn’t feel comfortable with this option. Having said that, our next time will be on motorcycles! Also, we wanted to be able to take in the views rather than worry about driving off a cliff… 

Option 2: There is one bus from Manali to Kaza and it leaves at 6am. There are no reserved seats but this is the cheapest option. We heard the ride through the pass can be a bit dangerous and rough so weren’t so keen on taking the bus. 

Option 3: A “Volvo bus” would have been more comfortable but apparently wasn’t available because it was the end of the season.

Option 4: Private taxis (“yellow cab”) wanted to charge us 9,000 rupees to drive from Manali to Kaza. This was way too expensive and out of the question.

Option 5: Shared Taxi in a 4×4 costs only 2,000 rupees each but the driver who looked like Indian Lenny Kravitz, didn’t have a permit to drive foreigners through Rohtang Pass. Lenny almost convinced us to sneak through the border but we decided not to.

Option 6: After walking for hours from one tourist office to another, we stepped into Chandertal Trek and Tours. After some negotiating, we decided to rent a private driver with a 4×4 to drive us for 10 days in the Himachal Pradesh. That way we could stop anywhere we wanted, film and photograph easier, and it also sounded like the most comfortable ride.

We negotiated the price for the driver, car and gas for 3,600 rupees a day. We later learned that this is way too much and it should have been about half but oh well… Foreigners always pay more because we have no clue what things should cost in India. We’ll know better next time.

Chandertal Tours helped us to plan the 10 day trip. We planned to drive from Manali to visit the valleys of: Spiti, Pin and Kinnauar, making a big loop and ending in Shimla.

We were going to meet our driver Bitu next day at 5:30am. Part 3 coming soon…

Have a tip or story to share about getting your Inner Line Permit? Please share in the comments below!

For our last few nights in Shimla, the capital of Himachal Pradesh, we moved to a nice little hotel in the Laakar Bazaar district in order to be more central. 

The hotel was decent enough and everyone who worked there was quite nice. But there was one employee who went above and beyond the call of duty. 

He was kind of like a bellhop, but also worked in the restaurant and just kind of helped out with whatever needed to be done. As we were checking into our room he began to converse with us. “What country are you from?” “What are your names?” etc. 

He was quite nice and so we indulged in some light conversation with him. At the end he wanted a selfie with us, which isn’t unusual. We’ve taken millions at this point. But then he asked if he could meet us in the evening because he wanted to talk with us more in English.

We said okay, he left and we went on with our day. Sadly by the time we got home from touristing it was quite late and we honestly had forgotten to look for him (he was working anyway) and we went straight to our room.

The next day we saw him and there was a sad look on his face. Turns out he waited for us until midnight! We felt terrible.

We weren’t actually able to meet with him until the last day. It was actually just me (Nate), who met with him. I agreed to talk with him in the restaurant and I brought my computer armed to show him some pictures of our trip and our blog etc.

As soon as I sat down the first thing he asked me was, “can you get me a visa for the UK?” I looked at him shocked and said I was from America. He then asked if I could get him one for the U.S. Sadly, I told him I couldn’t for reasons obvious to anyone from there. I explained that the process was quite complicated and expensive and that I had no connections or authority.

After that we chatted a bit more and he insisted on giving me a gift which was quite sweet. I tried to refuse but he wouldn’t have it. He also invited us to his village to stay with him and his family and said it would be “his greatest honor”. At the very end he told me “we will be best friends and I will write you on Facebook every day”. Well he’s kept his promise. 

I’ve received messages almost every day ranging from, “how are you?” to “where are you?” to “I love you”, “I miss you” and “please come back to Shimla!”. Marta and I were a bit worried and quite shocked that we might have an actual stalker.

But since talking with other Indian friends we think it’s a combo of things. One is a “lost in translation”, two is a cultural difference, and three, he’s never been treated this way by a foreigner before. The hotel we stayed at was really a locals place where Indian tourists stay. I don’t think many westerns have stayed there. And the fact that two exotic foreigners walked in, talked with him gave him probably far more respect than Indian tourists do, he couldn’t help but wear his heart on his sleeve.

With that perspective in mind, we’re still in touch and he think he is a great guy. His messages still “weird” me out a bit but I try to remember they are coming from a good place. And although we don’t always get it, we have to say the people of India are some of the sweetest, most sincere people we have ever met. 

… and that’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

A camel trip is probably one of the main reasons why you should visit Morocco. Camel trekking and an overnight stay, combined with stargazing in the Sahara desert will leave you with one of the most memorable experiences of your life and perhaps with some painful blisters on your butt too. Here is what you need to know before you go.

Where are the camels?

Most of the camel trips start in Merzouga. Depending on your itinerary, most likely you will be traveling to Merzouga from Marrachesch. There are plenty of travel agencies that can arrange the camel trip for you from Marrakech, but if you want to save money, we recommend that you take a CTM bus from the city. The bus ride is about 8h-10h,  but is very comfortable. If you have the time you can also stop in Todra Gorge for a night or two and do some trekking there and continue on to Merzouga from there.

First of all these animals are not camels. They actually are call a dromedary. The difference is that the dromedary have one hump, unlike camels, which have two lovely humps.  

Trekking

The most surprising thing about out camel ride was that all the camels are tide together by a rope and they walk in line following a guide. If you have never been on a horse and you are afraid, this is probably great news for you. For those who expect a more wild ride you might be a bit disappointed in the ride itself. The ride was fairly comfortable, but we were happy to get down after 2-3 h. 

What  NOT to wear on a dromedary (camel) trip?

There is just one very important piece of clothing that you should NEVER  wear on a dromedary/camel trip. It’s a thong. OMG, don’t ever make the same mistake, unless you want to experience blisters in places that you never thought you could get.

Have you heard of the phenomenon called sahara butt? probably not. It’s when you wear clothes that rub in the crevices of your body e.g your butt. Yeah, just don’t wear any clothes that will crunch up in you butt. We are going to leave this here but trust us!!

How to avoid the sahara butt?

1. Wear comfortable underwear and don’t wear any clothes that will crunch up (in you butt).

2. Wear long pants, your legs won’t chafe !! 

3. Loose clothes are great! You won’t sweat and it will protect you from the sun plus you will be comfortable. 

Also Important:  Do not forget your sunglasses, head scarf, sunblock and SPF lipstick!

Night at the Desert

After a few hours of trekking you will arrive to your camp. You will be fed, with most likely Tagine, and if you are lucky enough you might be entertained with traditional berber music. Berber people have an amazing culture and spirit. 

Tipsy Gypsies Tip:  We recommend that you bring some liquor to the desert. Berber people like alcohol, and as long as you share your goods with them, they will too.

Berber people were traditionally nomads. Don’t assume that the nomadic lifestyle and simple life make these people ignorant . Both of our guides were smart students who spoke fluently in at least 4 languages. They were also are humble and very talented musicians They told us they didn’t like big cities and decided to live a simple life and follow their passion, music.

Tipsy Gypsies Tip:  We talked with our guides and asked them for some funny stories from the desert. They told us that sometimes tourists get too drunk and behave rude. Some tourist decide to wander off the camp to the dunes and can’t find their way back. Drunk tourist might be only 5 minutes away from the camp, but the dunes all look very similar. The guides are always vigilant and they know where you are and will rescue you (after some time) of course. So unless you know how to guide yourself with the starts, you might have to spend some lonely hours rethinking your behavior and actions. We think that is a fair lesson.

Sunrise

You can’t miss the sunrise in the desert. It’s spectacular! If you only stay one night you will most likely head back to the hotel early in the morning. You will eat breakfast at the hotel and you can use the shower and pool for couple of hours. 

Saying goodbye to this view was hard, but we will be back for more!!

Meet the Ganoua tribe

On your way out from Merzouga we stopped by Khamlia village. Khamilia village is inhabited by the Ganoua or Gnawa people, who originally were slaves from Africa.  Nowdays, the Gnawa people are shepherds and dromedary/camel herders and their music is world famous. At the village we experienced the traditional music and dance of the Ganoua tribe performed by a group called “Groupe des Bamabras” . They were truly amazing and welcoming. If you want to learn more about their history check out www.khamlia.com

From the souks and craftsmen of Marrakesh and Fes to the dunes of Merzouga and continuing on high into the Atlas mountains, see Morocco like you’ve never seen it before.

‘MOROCCO’ takes you on a journey beyond the obvious and into the heart and soul of this beautiful country. The film was shot over the course of a month.

Lisbon is simply sensational. Whether you are a foodie, music and art lover, or someone who just likes to wander, this city has something for everybody.  Here are 10 things The Tipsy Gypsies loved most about Lisbon.

1. The Streets of Lisbon

Colorful alley ways with small stoops and painted doors. When you walk through the small windy streets you will be constantly amazed by what’s around the corner.

2. The Tiles

Portugal is known for its production of the most amazing ceramics in the world. Many old exterior buildings are covered with these beautiful and colorful tiles. Tile making is still considered a very prestigious job and the artists spends decades perfecting their craft.

While walking through the city we stumbled into a small tile studio.  The artist/owner welcomed us in to watch her process.

Tile Shop and Studio: Cristina Pina

https://www.facebook.com/ceramicacristinapina?__mref=message

3. Transportation

When you visit Lisbon make sure you ride the famous graffiti covered tram Elevador da Glória (picture below) or the historic Tram 28.

4. Pastel De Nata

This egg tart pastry is the most popular dessert in Portugal. They are perfectly golden-yellow in color, with a crunchy outside and soft buttery center. If you can, try to get a fresh warm Pastel de Nate straight form the oven. Enjoy it with a cup of tea or coffee. 

5. Sidewalk cafes

Summers in Lisbon are beautiful. The trees are green and the flowers are blooming. The city is buzzing with tourists from all over the world. It seems like every street and ally is decorated with colorful garlands or some sort of artwork. Endless cafes and restaurants fill the city with menus and smells that you can’t resist. Sitting in a charming side walk cafe while sipping on chilled sangria is a nice way to take a short break from exploring. 

6. Time Out Market

This is probably the best spot in Lisbon to meet friends for lunch and drinks. The Time Out market brings the best chefs from the city together to deliver gourmet food without the stiff attitude of high-end restaurants. This place has communal tables and a fun atmosphere. Even the most picky eaters can find something delicious to eat here.

7. Bifana Sandwich

One of the best and cheapest things to eat in Lisbon. Bifana is a simple pork sandwich served with mustard and chili oil. At a cost of about $1.50 you should have enough change left over to wash it down with an ice cold beer. And you know it’s damn good if Anthony Bourdain says he can’t get enough of them.

Where to eat it: O Trevo restuarant

Address: Praca Luis de Camoes 48, Lisbon

8. Fado Music

Fado is more than just music for the Portuguese people. It’s been referred to as the Portuguese blues. It’s tragic, it’s emotional and even if you don’t understand the words you will feel it. The best place to eat some hot, flaming sausage and listen to live fado singers is A Tasca de Chico. Make sure to make a reservation. This place gets crazy crowded. 

Where: A Tasca do Chico                                                                                                        Address: R. do Diario de Noticias 39, 1200-333 Lisbon, Portugal

9. Ginjinha

A cheery liquor served in a regular or chocolate shot glass. Need we say anymore? If so, click here! 

10. People

Portuguese people are the most friendly and open folks you will ever meet when traveling. The Tipsy Gypsies believe this country is beautiful not only because of the scenery but the people’s hospitality. Btw, this man’s real name was Casanova and he lived up to it too!!!

We are nothing short of amazed by the Sikh people. What they have created is not just a place for themselves, but a sanctuary for all faiths (or non faiths) as long as you come in peace.

Aside from beautiful prayer rooms, where you can pray to whichever god you choose, every Gurdwara has a langer hall where anyone can come almost any time of the day, and eat fresh, healthy vegetarian food.

In the massive kitchens you will find volunteers of almost every faith churning giant pots of daal or kneading dough for freshly baked roti.

When you sit in one of their giant food halls, you will be served with a smile and provided as many portions as you’d like. But it doesn’t stop there.

Many Gurdwara’s also offer other services like nurseries, and classrooms at no cost.

The Sikh’s have a complicated history steeped in tradition which we won’t elaborate on here, but we highly recommend you read about them further as they are a fascinating and wonderful people.

Today we explored Swayambhunath Temple, also known as Monkey Temple in Kathmandu, Nepal. It was a magical experience. We met so many friendly people including a buddhist monk, as well as made many monkey friends. Although if you ever visit, be careful! They will grab your water bottle, your bag, your camera, ANYTHING they can in a second if you let your guard down. Sneaky little buggers 🙂

Here is another short post about what we did in Helsinki, Finland.  

Finland was not in our original itinerary. However, our ticket from America to Poland was cheaper by stopping through Helsinki. Plus our good friends Noora, a native Finnish girl and Alex, an all American boy, were already in Helsinki at the same time. So a two day layover in Helsinki just made sense.

As usual, on our first day we walked around the city. This is the best ways to get the “vibe”. You can go to museums, admire the new and old architecture and be a tourist.  You will see what people look like, what they eat and what they wear. Every city has a unique sound and smell. So if Helsinki had a smell, it would be fresh lake water in a birch forest, and the sound would be the Finnish language, which sounds like a mythical melody. Helsinki is the biggest city in Finland yet it feels rural and small compared to other capitals. People in general were also very calm and polite.

Summers are short and moderate in temperatures in Finland, so whenever the sun is out, people are out too. It is kind of funny seeing people spreading out on city benches, grass at the parks and rocks. Yes, Finnish people are obsessed with sitting on large rocks in parks, at the beach, wherever they can find them, they sit on them. 

After a few hours of walking around the town, we stopped at “Sandro” for lunch. Sandro is really great Moroccan fusion cuisine with many healthy options. They have an all you can eat buffet for about 12 euros (with meat) or 10 euros (vegan) including coffee and refreshing mint tea. We highly recommend this place. We left “Sandro” happy and stuffed. 

Here is link to Sandro’s restaurant:

http://www.sandro.fi/

Another recommendation for vegans/vegetarians when visiting Finland is “Soi, Soi”. This place has a amazing food. When you are craving something substantial, this place is the bomb. Plus we got to hang out with the one of the owners of this place and he is very lovely.

http://soisoi.fi/

Vegan burger fro Soi Soi restaurant in Finland !! (pic. soi soi)

Picnic at Suomenlinna Island

The highlight of our trip was a visit to Suomenlinna ( Sveaborg) island. This island used to be a sea fortress build to protect from Russian expansion. Nowadays, people live and work there year around. There is a school, post office and grocery store on the island. A lot of people go there to sunbathe and swim so definitely bring your swim suit. 

It’s a short, 15 minute ferry ride, from the city center (Market Square).The tickets are 5 Euros for adults (round trip) and it is definitely worth the money. Many people like to take a picnic there. Either bring some food with you or just get it a the local store. They have cold beer!!

You can spend the whole day on the island, especially in the summer because it doesn’t get dark till 1-ish am. The last ferry from Suomenlinna back to the city leaves at 2am. 

Ferry info:

 ww.helsinkicard.com/attraction/ferry-suomenlinna/

The Finnish Sauna

We couldn’t leave Finland without the sauna experience. It would be like going to Octoberfest and all you get is a Coca Cola. After all, Finnish people invented sauna.

The sauna to Finnish people is more that just sweating in a hot room. It’s a cultural and bonding experience. Most of the Finnish houses have saunas and if you go to Finland it is most likely that your Finnish friends will invite you to join them. Finnish people believe that the sauna is good for almost everything and everybody. If you have a cold, arthritis, breathing problems or you need to relax etc, the sauna will make it better. 

After a long day of drinking beers, bbq’ing and loving life, the sauna sounded amazing. 

Here is what you need to prepare yourself:

Before you enter the sauna you first take a cold shower. Then butt naked, you go to the sauna and join the rest of your friends who are also butt naked. It’s a faux pas to wear a bikini or a towel in the sauna. Everybody is naked! If you feel uncomfortable in the beginning, we guarantee that after your second and third beer you will be cool with the whole thing. If you still feel uncomfortable, just keep drinking. 

Thank you to all our friends (new and old) who made this trip so fun for us. Noora and Alex thank you for showing us the local’s perspective on Finland. 

Also specials thanks to Ana Šuligoj’ and Monday Mou who let us crash in their cool, artsy apartment. Teemu, you are such a kind and beautiful person. Thank you for driving us to the airport at 6 am! 

The tipsy gypsies saying goodbye to their Swedish Friends at 5am. Thank you Alex, Nora and Teemu!

We make new friends everywhere we go!

Helsinki recommendations:

Food: 

Sandros: 

http://www.sandro.fi/

Soi Soi:

http://soisoi.fi/

What to do: picnic at Suomenlinna Island

Day trip: Take a ferry from Helsinki to Tallin in Estonia. It’s a one day minimum trip.